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Hello From Sicily - Exploring Salina, The Island Of The Twin Mountains

After our explorations of Lipari and indigenous to Southeastern China and
Salina yesterday the weather was going to grown in warm climates around the world
keep us on the island of Salina today. I today, are similar in appearance to
woke up early at about 6 am and stuck my apricots and are similarly sweet and
head out of the boat. A beautiful sunrise juicy.
was in the making so I grabbed my camera We appreciated this little roadside
and took in the pink, orange and peach snack, thanked Sabina's dad and continued
coloured hues of this glorious sunrise in our journey towards the next town on this
Santa Marina. Dark coloured clouds were island: Malfa, a small fisherman's town.
hanging on the horizon. A catamaran had Along the way we stopped to admire the
just pulled out of the harbour and malvasia vineyards as well as patches of
provided an interesting anchor point for capers which are big export products for
my photos. the island of Salina.
Shortly after it started to rain and when Malfa features a big church dedicated to
we got up for breakfast our skipper San Lorenzo and incidentally was the
Francesco explained that the weather hometown of our shipmate Lorenzo's
forecast today may not be good enough for grandparents and a place that he was
us to leave the island, so we have to going to spend some time in. Sabina took
have a briefing in the early afternoon. us down to the fishing harbour and then
Two additional guests had arrived, back up the hill to a lookout point
Franco, another Italian teacher and the called the "semaforo", a surveillance
co-owner of Laboratorio Linguistico, and tower erected in the early 20th century
his friend Agnieszka, a young music which was also used during the Second
student from Poland who was learning World War. Sabina mentioned that UNESCO
Italian since she was studying music in offered to buy this tower, but the local
Rome. Our trusted four-cabin sailboat, town turned down the offer. Today it is
the Solitaire II, now had passengers in abandoned and blocked off.
every cabin, and there were seven of us Sabina stopped the vehicle and we walked
traveling now. out onto a lookout point which provided a
Herbert, the German television travel gorgeous view of the Mediterranean with a
journalist, was on an official location great view of the island of Filicudi -
scouting trip for his travel show to the "reclining pregrant woman", so called
gather intelligence for next year's shoot because of its shape, featuring a head
which would feature the Italian learning and what looks like a big belly,
experience on board of a sailboat, protruding from the sea. To our left was
provided by Francesco's company, a deeply indented valley which Sabina
Laboratorio Linguistico. Herbert needed explained is an ancient volcanic crater,
to check out all the interesting spots, half of which has broken off and
the lighting, the locations and the disappeared in the sea. Today it is the
facilities so he would be able to make location for the village of Pollara which
plans for the script and the camera crew has one main tourist attraction: the
that would come down from Germany next house where the movie "Il Postino" was
year to film the extraordinary experience filmed.
of learning Italian on a sailboat while Of course we needed to check this out so
cruising through the beautiful Eolian we drove down some narrow winding roads,
Islands. parked the car and walked up a short
So in order to get to know the island stretch on a dusty road to see a rather
better Herbert had asked Francesco to unremarkable simple and small
make arrangements with some local experts pink-coloured house with some vines,
to take him to different spots on the which is one of the most famous locations
island. Herbert graciously offered to on the island. Seen from outside, there
take other people along on his island was nothing spectacular about this house,
exploration, and Claudia and me excitedly and Sabina indicated that it is available
agreed. Sure enough, Sabina Giuffré, who for short-term rentals.
we had already met last night at dinner, The weather was starting to clear up and
and her local friend Giancarlo, came to the view from the northern tip of Salina
pick us up in a rented vehicle to give us was gorgeous. The distances on this
a tour of the island. island are tiny, but due to the narrow
We were nice and comfy in the small and winding road it definitely takes a
Italian vehicle and after just a 10 while to get around. By 1 pm we were back
minute drive, we had arrived at our first at our boat and had a briefing with our
stop: the "Gola del Diablo", a gorge cut captain: Francesco indicated that due to
into the black and brown volcanic rock, the weather forecast we were not going to
featuring an ancient Roman bridge. The sail today. So we had a comfortable on
stone formations were indeed impressive, board lunch and I then headed into Santa
and the layers of ancient lava flows were Marina to walk around and make some phone
clearly visible. calls back to Canada. Unfortunately the
We also stopped in the village of Lingua Internet café was closed since it was
where we visited a local ethnographic siesta time, which often lasts from about
museum that featured various exhibits, 1 or 1:30 pm to 4 or 4:30 pm. In Sicily
illustrating the ancient ways of life on you definitely need to time your shopping
this local island. An ancient millstone, experiences carefully to make sure the
various farming implements, even an shops are open.
original bedroom from a farm were From 4:30 to 6:30 pm Claudia, Agnieszka
exhibited in this museum. This small and I had our first Italian language
museum provides great insight into the lesson, provided by Franco on the outdoor
traditional lifestyle on these islands. terrace of a local bar. Now here is a
We then walked around the corner and concept: language learning on the terrace
steps away is the main square of this of a bar - I definitely like it. It made
tiny town. Here at the Bar "Da Alfredo" the somewhat painful exercises dealing
we congregated and received free samples with the complexities of the Italian
of granitas - the semi-frozen Sicilian "congiuntivo" (the subjunctive) much more
dessert composed of sugar, water and palatable. I have studied a lot of
different flavourings such as strawberry, languages with different language
melon, peach, orange, lime, coffee, schools, and Laboratorio Linguistico has
almonds and many others. definitely created a very unique language
Similar to sorbets, granitas usually have learning concept here.
larger crystals, and the locals often eat After our intense lesson I took another
them in combination with a brioche. The stroll around Salina and this time the
black sky overhanging the mountains was Internet café was open. So far I have
ominous, but a bright ray of sunshine lit found fairly good public Internet access
up the façades of the houses around the in different parts of Sicily, and it's
square. A big husky dog was snoozing always great to be able to connect with
contentedly on the floor and I was home. Our boat crew spent a quiet evening
wondering how this poor dog with his on board, we fixed up a lovely
thick fur would be able to handle the hot home-cooked dinner with potatoes, salad,
Sicilian summers. The locals were very sweet carrots, cheese and various sweets
hospitable and humorous banter was flying for dessert. Some of my travel partners
back and forth. played cards while I organized my photos
From here we drove back through Salina, on the laptop which was conveniently
dropped off Giancarlo and stopped at hooked up to the electricity supply
Sabina's house which she has turned into provided by the harbour commission in
a bed and breakfast . Salina's dad came Santa Marina di Salina.
to greet us and I couldn't help but It was nice to have a day of rest in
detect a resemblance to famous actor Kirk Santa Marina, but I am definitely looking
Douglas. He graciously picked some forward to exploring a new island
"nespole" (loquat fruits) for us from his tomorrow: Stromboli!
fruit tree. These fruits, originally




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