Cogne's Winter Wonderland

As the mother of young children, I have fantasizedenjoy the Children's Playroom which contains
about the perfect winter get-away. My children, nowauthentic desks from A 19th century school house,
8 and 10, are fairly independent, but winter activities,wooden toys, bouncing balls, a puppet theater, legos
be it skiing or sledding, inevitably require extra effortand other surprises. Next door to this room is a
on the part of parents to assist. Socks pulled up,family movie theater for evening viewing. The hotel
pants leg down, snow pants up, inner pant leg backalso runs three restaurants -- one with a Michelen
up, so pull it down, left ski boot on, right ski boot on,Star. We really enjoyed a gastronomic evening of
left one hurts, left one off -- Add to that the"family fondue" at the Bar à Fromage in front of
necessity of driving from hotel to ski rental shop, aa roaring fire. At La Brassierie du Bon Bec, we had La
shuttle to the slopes and back again, and a "relaxing"Braserade where "braciere" was put on our table,
winter family vacation becomes nothing more than awith sausages, potatoes and Reblochon cheese to be
different kind of work.melted. At the end of the dish, crepes suzettes are
Imagine instead a gracious manor house in a valleymade directly on the braciere. The loving hand four
amidst the towering mountains of Valle 'd'Aosta, Italygenerations of the Jeantet-Roullet family is evident in
which just happens to have won the 2006 Spaevery nook and cranny of this family-owned hotel.
Trophy awarded by Relais Chateau. Imagine furtherNo where have I seen such a combination of rustic
that this hotel overlooks a parco neve (snow park)charm and sophisticated elegance.
complete with cross-country trails, small downhillBut the fun does not stop at the doors of the hotel.
course and tubing with roullez tappez (electricThe aero club Valle D'Aosta will take you flying, gliding
side-walk) to carry you back up the hill, a trampolineor parachuting over and around Monte Bianco/Mont
and lounge chairs on the snow, warmed by the sun'sBlanc. A horse drawn sled will also take you for a
rays (sunglasses and sunscreen a must). If you dare,memorable ride through the snowy valley of
imagine further that three steps from the hotel andValnontey. Centro di Turismo Equestre "Le Traineau"
the park is a ski rental at about nine Euros (12 U.S.) a+39 333 314 7248. We opted to spend our
day, and a five minute walk down the road, a chairliftnon-sking, non-spa time training to become the leader
for more advanced skiers at about 10 Euro a day (13of a dog sled team with Signor Genta. The kids were
US). Tired kids? Throw their skis in the hotels shedsafely tucked inside a dog sled and team lead by a
for a while (every room has its' own locker) andprofessional. I was given my own sled, some
warm up inside with a cup of tea or hot chocolate ininstruction, and off I went, the leader of my own
front of a noce carved fireplace.team. Although thrilling, I felt like I was on some wild
Sound like a fantasy? Such a place really exists at theride at Disney where the brakes malfunctioned. It
HOTEL BELLEVUE and it's not located in a fabricatedwas great fun, but is definitely for those of you who
1980s ski village that sprang up overnight. It exists infind yourself in excellent physical shape (I am not,
Cogne, an 11th century Italian mountain village atunfortunately, in this sector of the population) and
1534 meters altitude. It lies within the border of thewho like a good thrill (I am at least part of the
National Park "Gran Paradiso," designated as such insecond group). Sled dogs, I learned, really like to pull,
1922 for its beauty and unique fogliage and fauna.the faster the better, and it takes good balance and
The hotel itself has so many benefits for families, it isstrength to keep WITH the sled. Next time, I'd opt
difficult to know where to start. The spa area withfor a "kid" seat, tucked away in a toasty sled, letting
its pool and Jacuzzi with recliners and hydro- massagethe professionals do all the work, listening to the
is enjoyable for all but the smallest visitors. As forsnow swish by, taking in the scenery and the passion
particular spa treatments, they are for theof the dogs whisking me through a field of white
enjoyment of Mom and Dad, while smaller visitorspowder.